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Gelato N° 48

Calabrian Liquorice Gelato

Intense flavor, dark color, enveloping creaminess

Calabrian Liquorice Gelato
Calabrian Liquorice Gelato

Calabria is the homeland of the world's best liquorice: the climate and soils of the Cosenza area produce a root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) rich in glycyrrhizin, the extract is naturally sweeter and less bitter than that from other regions. This gelato uses pure liquorice powder for intense flavor, dark color, enveloping creaminess. It's not a flavor for everyone — you either love liquorice or hate it. But if you love it, this gelato will blow your mind.

Servings
4
Active time
12 min
Total time
24.5h
Machine
Tefal / Moulinex Dolci · Ninja Creami Deluxe

Ingredients

Calabrian Liquorice Gelato — Ingredients

For Tefal / Moulinex Dolci (480 ml beaker)

  • Fresh cream 35% — 180 g
  • Whole milk — 120 g
  • Mascarpone — 50 g
  • Granulated sugar — 45 g
  • Dextrose — 20 g
  • Pure licorice powder — 15 g
  • Guar gum — 0,4 g
  • Pinch of salt

For Ninja Creami Deluxe (720 ml pint)

  • Fresh cream 35% — 250 g
  • Whole milk — 170 g
  • Mascarpone — 70 g
  • Granulated sugar — 63 g
  • Dextrose — 28 g
  • Pure licorice powder — 20 g
  • Guar gum — 0,6 g
  • Pinch of salt

Method

  1. In a bowl dry-mix the sugar, dextrose, guar gum and liquorice powder. Important step: liquorice powder forms lumps if thrown directly into liquids
  2. Heat the milk in a small saucepan. Don't boil, just warm (~50-60°C)
  3. Pour the dry mix into warm milk and whisk well until fully dissolved. You'll see milk turn dark, that's normal
  4. Let cool completely
  5. In the blender put cream, mascarpone, salt and the cold liquorice milk. Blend 30 seconds
  6. Pour into beaker (Dolci) or pint (Ninja). MAX line. No lid. Level in freezer
  7. 24 hours at -18°C
  8. ICE CREAM program (Ninja) or GELATO (Dolci)
  9. RE-SPIN if needed. For more creaminess: 2 tablespoons cold cream on top, level, RE-SPIN

Technical Balance

Total Solids~38%
Fat~22%
MSNF~10%
Sugars~16%
PAC~245
Stabilizersguar + mascarpone + destrosio
Alcohol0%
⚠ Technical Notes

If you can't find pure powder: soft black liquorice wheels (35 g for 500ml / 50 g for 710ml, cut small and dissolved in warm milk); Haribo-style gummy liquorice (same dose as wheels, slightly sweeter taste); grated liquorice root sticks (10 g for 500ml, very concentrated); thick bar-style liquorice syrup (25 g for 500ml and reduce sugar to 35 g, because syrup is already sweet).
Tips: for milder flavor reduce liquorice to 10 g, for strong flavor increase to 20 g. Salt enhances liquorice immensely, never skip it.

Calabria DOP Liquorice: the world quality

Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) grows wild throughout the Mediterranean, but Calabrian liquorice is considered the best in the world. The plant is mentioned by Pliny the Elder (1st century AD) as a regional product. DOP brand "Liquirizia di Calabria" since 2011, covers 4 provinces (Cosenza, Catanzaro, Crotone, Reggio Calabria).

The chemical difference: Calabrian liquorice has 6.5-7% glycyrrhizin (the sweet active principle), while Turkish/Chinese reaches 4-5%. More glycyrrhizin = more flavor with less quantity. For ice cream this means: 8g of Calabrian liquorice is enough to give character to an entire pint, while commercial liquorice would need 12-15g.

The historic brand "Amarelli" (Rossano, Cosenza) has been active since 1731 — it's the oldest liquorice factory in the world. For this recipe we use pure Amarelli powder or extract.

Glycyrrhizin + cold: flavor chemistry

Glycyrrhizin is 50 times sweeter than sugar, but with a completely different taste profile (sweet-bitter-anise). In ice cream it doesn't replace sugar (different PAC and POD), but drastically intensifies the perception of "intense and complex".

Technical curiosity: cold partially SUPPRESSES glycyrrhizin sweetness perception. So in ice cream (served at -10°C) liquorice seems less sweet and more bitter than at room temperature. Balance requires: slightly higher than average sugar (to compensate for sweetness suppression), and addition of an anise note (1 drop essential oil) that "rises" with cold balancing.

Liquorice ice cream variants

"Salt and Liquorice" version (Maldon salt): add 0.8g Maldon salt in pint. Salt strengthens sweet, contrasts liquorice bitter. Complex flavor, for connoisseurs.

"Liquorice + Pernod" version: 5g Pernod (high PAC). Pernod's anise amplifies liquorice anise notes. Adults, after dinner.

"Liquorice + Chocolate" version: 30g 70% dark chocolate as MIX-IN. Classic Nordic combination (Finnish Lakritsi). Contrasting flavors.

"Vegan Calabrian" version: almond milk + coconut cream instead of dairy. Perfectly plant-based. Liquorice is naturally vegan.

"No-sugar (keto)" version: replace sugar with erythritol + 6g glycerin. Glycyrrhizin has 0 carbs, is a pure aroma — perfect for keto. ~3g net carbs per serving.

How to serve liquorice

In Calabria liquorice ice cream is served after dinner, with long American coffee or local digestifs (Calabrian, Bergamasco amaro). Optimal temperature is -10/-11°C (warmer than normal): too-cold liquorice loses aroma.

Recommended pairings: • 1 cube of Calabrian herb amaro (the classic regional digestif) • Neapolitan ristretto coffee (regional tradition) • Small piece of 80% dark chocolate at hand palm

"Calabrian trattoria" presentation: scoop (60g) in terracotta cup, decorated with small dry liquorice branch (Amarelli sells whole roots, decorative). 1 sprinkle of Maldon salt on top.

Specific liquorice problems

"Medicine/pharmacy" taste: you used low-quality liquorice (Chinese/Turkish). Pure Calabrian glycyrrhizin is sweet-aromatic, not "medicinal". Change provider — Amarelli online costs €30-40/kg, little is enough.

"Color is gray not black": industrial liquorice powder is often "cut" with anise and maltodextrin. Pure Calabrian (unprocessed) is dark brown that turns black with cold. Gray color = "diluted" liquorice.

"Flavor faded after spin": you added liquorice AFTER pasteurization. Wrong: it must cook with milk/cream base at 85°C for 1 minute to release aromas.

"Excessive bitter taste": too much liquorice. Limit is 8g per 480ml pint (Calabrian). Above, bitter dominates and sweet doesn't balance. Reduce, possibly add 1g extra salt.

Storage

Calabrian liquorice has natural preservative properties (glycyrrhizin has antimicrobial activity): useful life 14-18 days at -18°C. Flavor "stabilizes" 24-48 hours after first spin (aromas "amalgamate").

Strategy: prepare 2-3 pints simultaneously. Consume the first immediately; leave others in freezer 3-4 days and process when flavor has "relaxed". Perceptible difference: the first is more "edgy" bitter, the third is more "round" and deep. Same ingredient, different experience.

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